I don’t often make pies because I’m not crazy about them. But every now and again I get a hankering for a taste and recently that resulted in not one but TWO pies. And both from Bill Neal’s “Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie”. That cookbook is a baking treasure trove. It’s out of print but I’m fairly certain you can still get it. Anyway, chocolate chess and lemon chess were the pies I baked. Which one’s best? Well, you can’t compare the two…you just can’t. It would be like comparing two children and we all know how wrong that is. Chess pie is a Southern classic, rich, sweet and intense. Vanilla and/or nutmeg is the traditional choice, chocolate the rich choice and lemon, oh lemon, probably the South’s favorite. Lemon is my pet, my treasured pie if I have to pick; the juice and zest adding such depth to the soul of the custard. It makes me moan. But don’t despair. Chocolate is sinful, too. A small amount of bourbon or rum flavors the custard and raises the desire for another bite to scandalous proportions. Chess pies improve with a day or two in the refrigerator before serving. Lemon and vanilla chess pies always includes cornmeal in the recipe, however, it is never found in chocolate. I always serve these pies cold, with or without whipped cream, but always cold. Of course, a store-bought crust may be used but if you have a favored recipe these pies will make the pie shell positively sing. Possibly because it’s such a simple pie but you’ll take note and appreciate everything that makes a crust made by hand special. I know none who don’t love chess pie. And this pie is worthy of being a hostess gift, (she can tuck it into the back of the refrigerator and enjoy it the next day while having a post-party chat on the phone with you), or is perfect to take to the house of a friend who’s lost a loved one. Chess pie says “I love you”, “I’m so sorry for your loss” even “I’m sorry I hurt your feelings”. But whatever the reason you prepare this, that pie will make everyone happy!
Lemon Chess Pie
- 1 partially baked 9-inch pie shell
- 4 eggs
- 1 1/3 cup sugar
- 4 tablespoons buttermilk
- 2 tablespoons cornmeal
- 1/2 cup melted butter
- zest of 1 lemon
- 3 tablespoons lemon juice
- not enough freshly grated nutmeg to measure
- Preheat oven to 450°.
- Beat the eggs lightly, beating in the sugar.
- STIR in the salt, buttermilk, cornmeal and melted butter until smooth. Flavor with lemon zest and juice, and nutmeg.
- Pour the custard into the partially baked pie shell. Place in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 325° and bake until the custard is just set, but not puffed-about 35 minutes. (Mine takes about 10 minutes more.)
Chocolate Chess Pie
- 1 partially baked pie shell
- 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
- 1/2 cup butter
- 4 eggs
- 1 1/4 cup sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons heavy cream
- 1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
- 1 tablespoon bourbon or rum
- Preheat oven to 325°.
- Melt the chocolate and butter together in a double boiler.
- Beat the eggs lightly.
- Toss the sugar, salt and flour together and stir into the eggs.
- Add the cream and the melted butter and chocolate.
- Flavor with the vanilla and whiskey.
- Pour into the partially baked pie shell and bake for about 35 minutes or until the custard is set and has a slightly crusty top without excessive puffing.